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Your WE tent package contains the tent layers, framework components, pegs and some spare parts. A system of bags, including an outer ‘carry bag’, is provided to manage these components. Optional groundsheets, pegs for different ground conditions and a full range of other tent accessories are available separately.

Always look for a safe, well drained, level area that will allow the tent to be best orientated to the wind and terrain. In snow, use your skis or snowshoes to level and compact an area on which to pitch your tent. Clear away loose debris on the ground that could damage the tent floor. Be aware of overhead or nearby branches that could damage the tent or cause injury. Most of our tents have a preferred orientation to the wind. Pay attention to this when choosing the set-up site. Always prepare for the possibility of a fresh breeze or stronger wind, even if it seems unlikely.

Handle poles and frameworks with care. Make sure all connection points are fully engaged before setting your tent up and ensure they do not partly open up during the set-up process. Place them a little away from the set-up area to avoid accidentally stepping on them. It is also worth getting the tent pegs organised before you start, especially if it is windy. Put them in your pocket or out on the ground roughly where they will be needed.

The set-up instructions that follow below should be read in conjunction with the remaining information in this article. We think you will appreciate the tips for use we have provided based on our more than 40 years using WE tents in all conditions. You must also make yourself familiar with the care instructions to avoid damage and premature deterioration of your tent.

Setting up the SPACE 1, SPACE 2 and ACE

WE Space and Ace tent models use a unitary framework system with our unique dihedral hubs. The inner tents are set up first and can be used with or without the outer skin is fitted. Outer tents can be set up without the inner if the ground sheet option is carried. The small end of the Space models and either end of the Ace should face the wind.

  • Connect up all parts of the framework. With the inner tent laid out on the ground insert the pole end tips into the pole feet fittings, first at one end of the tent, then the other. Components have colour codes to help identify matching ends.

  • Clip the inner canopy up to the framework, starting at the ends first is best.

  • Fit the short cross pole over the main arch, springing its ends into the webbing strap pockets. The eyelets also provided on these straps are for the tips of your walking or ski poles, inverted and adjusted to length. Using them this way adds exceptional stability to Space tents in strong wind.

  • Space and Ace inner tents have an internal hub-to-hub tension system. This adjustable cord can be connected up to maintain headroom, and improve both stability in strong wind and the tent’s ability to support an accumulation of snow. It also works well as a hanging line. If you are leaving your tent for some time it is a good idea to fit the tension cord.

  • The general ‘Inner-Pitch-First’ instructions given below can now be followed but note that Space outer tents have a pair of pockets under the ends of the cross ridge to positively locate the outer skin when the sides are open. Slip these pockets over the cross pole webbing pockets using the finger loops to assist before completing the outer skin tension strap attachments at the four pole feet.

  • Space tents have very efficient vents. The vent fabric triangles on the outer tent can be toggled up to the inner tent so that, even with a vent zipped open, steady rain can still be deflected while ventilation continues.


    All WE tents and tarps are engineered tensile structures designed and constructed to resist storm-force winds. All models should be pitched so fabric panels are as taut as possible – Tectite models also depend on this for correct ventilation. Strong, even tension greatly reduces the risk of fabric flapping. Like the tail of a whip, when fabric is allowed to flap destructive forces many times normal fabric tensions are generated and place the fabric at risk of tearing. Just as sailors act with urgency to control a flogging sail you should do the same with your tent. Note also - all nylon fabrics are prone to going a little ‘slack’ when they get damp or wet. But, when combined with silicone finishes, nylon fabrics have many excellent properties making them the best choice for our lightest outer skins. Use the comprehensive tensioning systems provided on all WE outer tents to ‘adjust out’ this dimensional change when it occurs.



    No matter what design or how well ventilated your tent is, certain combinations of damp air and cold temperatures will produce condensation on any surface, even mesh. You can reduce the amount of condensation in the following ways: Adjust the carefully designed and located vents on your WE tent to reduce the accumulation of the moisture exhaled with each breath – up to a litre per person overnight. Camp high where the air is normally drier, and camp away from water bodies where the air is naturally more humid. Site your tent under trees to reduce loss of heat (as infrared radiation disappearing out into the clear night sky). Similarly, site your tent near rocks or other massive objects so it can gain heat from their radiation. When condensation is expected to be significant use a sleeping bag with a water-resistant shell fabric. We carry a small cloth to mop up excess moisture.


    The high-end polyurethane (PU) coatings used to waterproof most lightweight tent floor fabrics are not complete barriers to moisture vapour. Body heat and cold surroundings can result in some ground moisture passing through the coating and condensing inside a tent floor. (Other coating types that are good vapour barriers are unsuitable for many other reasons). Focus on reducing atmospheric condensation as described in the section above. It is overwhelmingly more significant.


    Like every tent manufacturer we warn against any use of a stove in a small tent. But the fact is that stoves do get used in tents when the weather is poor. So we add this advice. You must be a complete master of the stove’s maintenance and operation, constantly attend it during operation and be prepared to deal with an emergency. Use it only in the vestibule, well clear of nearby and overhead gear. Beware of rising heat. Ventilation at ground level is essential to prevent carbon-dioxide accumulation. The combustion of gas and liquid fuels also produces moisture vapour, adding to what comes out of the cooking pot, so provide good overhead ventilation as well.


    There are three rules: Correct orientation, excellent fabric tension and intelligent guy deployment. Set guy angles to take the wind direction into account. Make sure nothing is chafing or rubbing as the tent flexes with the wind gusts. Pegs and other improvised anchors must be utterly secure. In extreme wind use your body or pack to support fabric panels. If you often use your tent in exposed locations consider adding some valences around the outer tent perimeter so these can be buried or weighted down to assist anchoring and reduce wind penetration. Ask us about that.


    Excessive snow accumulation on flat tent surfaces poses a far greater risk to your tent’s structural integrity than high wind velocities. Site your tent in the open where the wind can scour away snow, not in turbulent areas on the lee side of ridges or in tree bands where snow drops out and accumulates. In still conditions snow build-up can go unnoticed. Clear it away regularly. Dig away accumulated snow at the tent sides if it hinders knocking snow from the top of the tent. Set a regular wake-up alarm if you need to. Maintain adequate ventilation when the snow depth increases.


    We maintain a standard of equipment design and construction that is best summed up by ‘good gear for poor conditions’, not the other way around. There are seasons and places where you don’t always need this level of confidence and can save weight by leaving one of your tent layers at home.

    Consider our ground sheet options, practice setting your outer tent up on its own, or see how you can use one of our lightweight Overhang tarps as shelter for the whole group.

    Also experiment with improvisation when it will offer a better solution to securing your tent: In soft sand you can bury a big stick or rock as a deadman anchor when the peg you have may be too narrow. Loose rocks are often available to secure tents set up on open rock surfaces - but put then back after! Always carry five or ten metres of thin cord. It is invaluable for improvising.


    In the event of a broken pole section or connector use a pole repair sleeve to fix the problem and adhesive tape to position the sleeve over a break. Pole sections that have been bent out of shape can usually be straightened by hand, across a knee or around another smooth rounded surface such as the trunk of a sapling.

    In forty years we have not found a more versatile field repair tape than Leukoplast® 50mm medical adhesive plaster in the Blue and White container. Besides its first aid and strapping uses it works very well on the PU coated side of torn fabrics.

    Repair tapes do not stick to fabrics finished both sides with silicone. In the field repairs must be made by hand so carry a needle, thread and some strips of repair fabric. Having said that, fabric tears are rare. Old tents with severely UV-weakened fabric or misadventure with crampons digging out snow-bound tents are the only instances we can recall.

    By the way, WE Quad pegs with their four flutes make ideal internal splints for fractured ski and walking poles. Three-flute pegs do not have the necessary bending resistance.

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