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We are restructuring our DIY repair web information to give you direct access to the solutions for individual problems and to make it the most comprehensive guide available anywhere. While we do this you can still access past DIY information via the individual product pages.

We are in the process of adding pages for each separate 'problem' - all listed below. Soon you will be able to select your problem (from this same list but back on the DIY Repairs main menu page please while we set up the direct links), click on it and we will take you to what you are looking for. We also expect to add some videos in due course.

Please continue reading here now to get our introductory comments for each group of problems...


Polyester coil zips are widely used on all outdoor gear. Damage resulting from an accumulation of dust or salt are the main causes of deterioration and failure.

COIL ZIP 1     Coils not meshing behind a closing slider
COIL ZIP 2     The slider is ‘frozen’ on the zip and can’t be moved
COIL ZIP 3     The zip coil stitching has worn and the zip is coming apart
COIL ZIP 4     The slider works but does not run freely
COIL ZIP 5     The coil zip slider pull tab has broken off
COIL ZIP 6     How to replace a coil zip slider
COIL ZIP 7     The two-way jacket zip is jammed with the bottom ends mis-matched
COIL ZIP 8     The zip flap fabric is caught and jammed in the slider


Moulded tooth zips are mainly used on wet-weather clothing where they have the main advantage of being available with corrosion-resistant plastic fittings. They are also a little easier to operate in foul conditions.

TOOTH ZIP 1     The zip is missing one or more teeth
TOOTH ZIP 2     A slider is frozen on the zip and can’t be moved
TOOTH ZIP 3     The bottom end of a jacket zip doesn’t connect as it should
TOOTH ZIP 4     The two-way bottom end of a jacket zip doesn’t connect
TOOTH ZIP 5     Replacing a jacket zip slider


Fabric coatings are essential to the waterproof performance of almost all outdoor equipment. They are usually DWR/PU, SIL/SIL, sometimes SIL/PU, or, in the case of rainwear particularly, may be laminations.  Once any of these fail, for whatever reason, there are no permanent recovery solutions. Nevertheless, here are some possible ways to extend the life of gear that has started letting you down in the field. (PU is polyurethane, SIL is silicone elastomer and DWR is durable-water-repellent).

COATING 1     DWR failure - water completely wets out the fabric
COATING 2     The PU coating is leaking
COATING 3     The PU coating has gone sticky
COATING 4     The PU coating is peeling off
COATING 5     The SIL/SIL coating is leaking - how to restore
COATING 6     The rainshell fabric is delaminating


Factory applied seam tapes in properly cared-for gear usually last the life of the fabric coating they are adhered to. The silicone elastomer coatings used on light-weight tent fabrics can’t be tape sealed but special thread types and careful construction can make these seams practically waterproof. The pages here cover all seam sealing problems.

SEAMS 1     The factory-applied seam tape is lifting or peeling - heat-setting
SEAMS 2     The seams on my SIL-coated outer tent are leaking
SEAMS 3     My rain shell appears to be leaking through the seams
SEAMS 4     Restoring seam water-repellency using silicone emulsion


Rips, punctures and abrasions can almost all be repaired using adhesives and sealants. Rarely is stitching necessary or a better option.

FABRIC DAMAGE 1     Hole and tear repair in lightweight PU-coated fabric
FABRIC DAMAGE 2     Hole and tear repair in lightweight SIL-coated fabric
FABRIC DAMAGE 3     Hole and tear repair in mesh
FABRIC DAMAGE 4     Repairing holes in PU-coated nylon pack fabric
FABRIC DAMAGE 5     Repairing holes in canvas pack fabric


Breaks and bends are not difficult to repair or replace. The tools needed are inexpensive and all available at your hardware store.

TENT POLES 1     Removing tent pole end tips
TENT POLES 2     Replacing a tent pole section
TENT POLES 3     Repairing split tube ends
TENT POLES 4     Replacing tube section connector inserts
TENT POLES 5     Straightening a bent pole section
TENT POLES 6     Joining broken shock cord


Over the years we have used different systems to make the direct connection between our pack hip harnesses and the bottom ends of their internal frames. There are several reasons why we have had to make these changes. The first is that, over the course of the past 35 years, some off-the-shelf parts we used were either discontinued or changed to special order only with prohibitive minimum order quantities. Another reason is that, by designing our own fittings, we have been able to eliminate long-term wear on components like metal eyelets set in webbing. Finally, most recently, we have devised better solutions that simplify the assembly and dis-assembly operations and greatly reduce the chance of errors in the production process. These are the variations:

WE HARNESS 1     Hip harness attached loose screws, threaded rivets set in the frame ends
WE HARNESS 2     Hip harness attached loose screws, nuts welded on U-clips fitted on frame ends
WE HARNESS 3     Hip harness attached welded screws, nuts welded on U-clips fitted on frame ends
WE HARNESS 4     Hip harness has riveted bayonet fittings engaging key holes in the frame ends
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